 |
 |
 |
 |
Ruth's Diner is worth a trip up the canyon

Cooking is like grandma's —
with a few sassy additions By
Stephanie Tanner-Brown
Deseret Morning News
Hey, what's
up with this weather? Each day this week I couldn't decide if I should
have the heater on or the AC. At least I didn't have to water my lawn
— the rain has been fantastic.
I took a drive up Emigration Canyon to get a smell
of the distinctly sweet clean air earlier this week. Oh, to have a front
porch in that canyon! That would be something.
For one thing, if I did, I'd hang out on it after
every summer rain and just sniff into bliss. For another thing, I'd buy
food from Ruth's Diner and present it as my own so often my kids would
never know my real cooking. My cooking's fine, but Ruth's is so good at
everything. And the staff takes the trouble to make things from scratch
that I've long since relegated to a pre-mixed package.
Ruth's reminds me of my grandma's cooking. The menu
reads like her repertoire: pork chops, chicken and dumplings, hot-turkey
sandwiches, lasagne, and grilled liver and onions. Plus it also has a
few extra-sassy things my grandma would like: jerk chicken skewers, coconut
curry shrimp, crusted chicken Romano.
I think Ruth's is the best diner in town because
of the emphasis it puts on quality and homemade recipes. Desserts, breads,
sauces, gravies, dressings. They make 'em right there. And that counts
for a lot.
There are so many places you could spend the same
amount of money, but why do it when Ruth's will cook it right and it will
taste so much better?
After a long day of work, my husband and I arrived
at Ruth's, grabbed menus, chose our own table and sat down for dinner.
We ordered sauteed mushrooms and crab cakes for starters. Great stuff.
Could've eaten everything in the appetizer section. The crab cakes were
tender, and the mushrooms — smothered in cheeses and herbs — were gooey
and decadent.
We also snacked on fresh-baked focaccia while we
waited for more food. Next round was cream of spinach soup for me and
a basic dinner salad for him. My soup was so great. The creamy broth was
the lightest ever, not pasty or gloppy, but just as it should be, with
plenty of bits of spinach and mushrooms.
Those came as part of our dinner entrees, which,
for me, was home-style meatloaf with brown gravy, cheesy mashed potatoes
and sauteed vegetables. I loved my plate — from the savory, light gravy
to the lightly herbed veggies cooked just right — and the generous serving
(two large slices from the loaf) was perfect as leftovers the next day.
For Gary, dinner was a plate full of fettucine and
grilled salmon in a super spicy red sauce with bits of andouille sausage,
peppers and basil. It was almost too spicy to taste the flavors for me,
but Gary ate nearly the whole thing.
How could we fit dessert in after a meal like this?
Simple. Order it for takeout. We got the mixed fruit cobbler and the chocolate
pudding. Homemade tastes good when it's dessert, and Ruth's sure does
a fine job. Though I wanted more "cobble" in my cobbler, the great thing
about it was that it wasn't too sweet . . . it let the fruit do the talking.
And the pudding, well, if it's been a while since
you loaded up your spoon to overflowing with the rich creamy treat, you'd
better head up the canyon. Ruth's is the old-fashioned kind and it's the
best.
Man, what a great home-cooked meal we had at Ruth's.
I've got to get back on the weekend for breakfast. It's probably not going
to rain much again for a while, but it's still incredible up in the canyons,
if for no other reason than really great homestyle food: the kind they
make at Ruth's Diner.
Prices for appetizers range from $1.75-7.95, salads
$2.95-9.95, entrees $8.95-15.95, burgers and sandwiches $6.25-7.95, desserts
$3.75
Ruth's Diner
**** (out of five)
Hours: daily from 8 a.m.-10 p.m.
Payment: major credit cards, checks
Location: 2100 E. Emigration Canyon Rd.
Reservations: none needed
Internet: http://www.ruthsdiner.com/
Stephanie Tanner-Brown is a freelance writer and designer who reviews
restaurants for the Deseret Morning News.
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com

|